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Matthew VAN DER SPUY(马修•范•斯伯伊):获得查尔斯特大学葡萄酒学理学学士学位,自2006年开始在新西兰、澳大利亚和法国等国参与酿酒。曾在新西兰思兰尼酒庄、圣山酒庄、星座酒庄、澳大利亚芬格富酒庄、法国旺图谷产区万度博蒙酒庄等多家知名酒庄担任酿酒师或葡萄园管理者。目前是春之泉酒庄的签约酿酒师。
 
 
       我叫马修,父亲是南非人,母亲是英国人,他们都是葡萄酒爱好者。我很幸运,8岁到16岁在法国渡过学校时光。我的酿酒生涯有三个缘由:父母对葡萄酒优秀的鉴赏力、法国是我的精神家园以及我对科技的热爱。
       我将新西兰称做故乡,因为自2002年起我就在那里学习酿酒学。在新西兰、澳大利亚和法国酿酒的过程中我因2010年和2011年酿造的AOC旺图谷而获奖。现在我在一家马尔堡葡萄酒生产商娜保拉泉酒庄做酿酒师,它在伦敦国际葡萄酒暨烈酒大赛中获得“2015新西兰年度葡萄酒生产商”奖项。
通过葡萄酒杂志和各类媒体,我看到中国不仅具有品鉴葡萄酒的审美,还有酿造优质葡萄酒的能力,我渴望见证这一切,随之而来的宁夏国际葡萄酒酿酒师挑战赛就给了我这个机会。
       在接受挑战赛的邀请后除了知道要充分把握这次机遇外,我也不知道该期待些什么。在这之前我没有喝过宁夏的葡萄酒,只看到过一些媒体评价。飞机到达宁夏境内时的景色令人沉醉,我不禁好奇哪里才能看到植被。当慢慢接近银川,我看到了壮阔的黄河,这让一切变得意义十足。
刚到银川,我住在舒适的银川温兹特酒店。在那里我见到了其他参赛酿酒师,了解了关于挑战赛的所有信息。我们参观了酒窖,品尝了酒,还体验了宁夏的特色美食。
       在享受了美酒佳肴之后,到了开始工作的时候了。参赛的酿酒师们通过抽签决定和哪个酒庄合作,使用哪块葡萄园里的葡萄。
 
马修在葡萄园与采摘工人合影
 
       之后我才知道,那天我很幸运,分到了一块上好的葡萄园(56区)。更重要的是,我的合作酒庄——罗山酒庄也非常棒,它坐落在红寺堡区的郊外。我和其中一位庄主王女士熟悉起来,王女士的侄女Chole担任我的翻译(法语和英语),汉森酒庄的酿酒师王树超(音)自愿在我停留期间给予我所有力所能及的帮助,这非常宝贵,因为他英语很好,而且懂得酿酒术语。
       参赛选手还没有立即被分配到各个酒庄,因为我们还要去检查葡萄园分区,熟悉场地,做成熟度测试。王女士陪我一起在葡萄园四处走走,这时我意识到如果没有翻译或是智能手机的翻译软件,一切都将是巨大的挑战。最初样品的白利糖度是21.5O,尚且不能采摘。但葡萄各项条件良好,口感不错,所以我很满意。
第二天,司机和Chloe来银川温兹特酒店接我去红寺堡。在离开银川之前他们去给我添置了一些生活用品,一双好的工作鞋,还给实验室买了一个PH测量仪,他们一直都很慷慨。
       当我们到达红寺堡时,我相当困惑,因为他们带我来到了一个看起来像是工程或加工类型的仓库,工人们在那里制作不锈钢储罐。当时我还是不太确定我们为什么来这里,后来我才发现我看到的是我的储罐,他们特意为竞赛给我订做的,想让我看看是否有需要修改。
       我们最终到了酒庄,我在四处简单看了看,然后他们带我去路边的酒店入住了。那晚我见到了罗山酒庄的所有员工,很快在餐桌上发现了罗山酒庄的家族精神,在工作之余大家都是朋友,这是多么美好啊!
       那天晚餐时还有一个有趣的对话,我当时向身旁的王女士说自己很喜欢霞多丽,而她也正计划在不久的将来酿造白葡萄酒。我提到这个是因为第二天他们要带我去一家白葡萄酒生产厂,那里他们正在榨汁酿造霞多丽。我们品尝了一些几天前采摘的葡萄制成的果汁,他们说如果我想酿造霞多丽的话,王女士会非常开心地给我买上1万升的果汁去酿酒。我选了一罐,事情真成了。不到一天,我就开始酿酒了,真是欣喜若狂。
       因为我的赤霞珠采收时机还没到,我就去欣赏风景,参观罗山酒庄,品尝桶里的酒和上一年酿造的葡萄酒,监控着我的霞多丽,订购添加剂,在酒庄享受温馨简单的午餐,了解酒窖的运营流程,这样当我的葡萄到来时就不会手忙脚乱了。
 
马修和罗山酒庄工作人员交流
 
       这短暂的休息时间可以帮我客观地思考。我相信宁夏未来将会在葡萄酒界大放异彩。宁夏产区的葡萄酒有超高水准的,也有表现平平的,这在世界上其他任何一个葡萄酒产区都一样。
       我做了一些成熟度取样测试,现在白利糖度是23℃,可以采收啦!
       很幸运我不用和管理局的采摘工人约定时间,因为罗山酒庄的所有员工,从厨师到会计齐上阵,我们在9月26日采收了我的15吨葡萄。葡萄运到酒庄后的第二天我们就开始处理。
 
马修在酒窖准备取样
 
       我的两储罐赤霞珠从一开始尝起来、闻起来、看起来都很棒。在离开这里两天前我将葡萄渣皮取了出来。要离开这里我很难过,不能看到酒窖里的罗山葡萄了。不过我知道我还会回来。
       我的首次宁夏之旅是一次巨大的成功。我会在心里永远珍藏与合作酒庄的点点滴滴,因为在那里工作的可爱的人,我感觉自己就像罗山大家庭的一员,每走一步都有他们的陪伴和帮助。
       那里的人亲切友善,食物妙不可言。令人振奋的是这仅仅是一个开始,无论在葡萄园还是在酒庄建设管理方面仍有巨大的改进空间,在我看来,这些都是“伟大”的迹象。在我眼中,宁夏显然将会是葡萄酒界一个不容小觑的力量。
 
Matthew van der Spuy obtained his Bachelor’s Degree in Wine Science from Charles Sturt University. Since 2006, he started to travel and make wine in New Zealand, Australia and France. He has been a winemaker or vineyard manager for many famous wineries including New Zealand’s Sileni Estates, Sacred Hill and Constellation New Zealand, Ferngrove Wine Group in Australia and Beaumont du Ventoux, the Cotes du Ventoux region in France, etc. Currently he is the production and contract winemaker in Spring Creek Vintners Ltd.
 
Ningxia,A Force to be Reckoned within the World of Wine
 
My name is Matthew VAN DER SPUY, son of a South African father and an English mother, both wine lovers themselves. I was lucky enough to grow up and go to school in France age 8 to 16. Three elements are behind my career in winemaking: my parent’s appreciation for fine wine, France as my spiritual home and my passion for science and technology.
I’ve called New Zealand home since 2002 and this is where I studied Oenology as a science. My career has seen me work in New Zealand, Australia and France where I won medals for the AOC Cotes du Ventoux wines I made in 2010 and 2011. As we speak I am one of the winemakers for Rapaura Springs, a Marlborough-based wine producer who was just named ‘NZ Wine Producer of the Year 2015’ at the ‘International Wine and Spirits Challenge’ in London.
Along the way, through wine magazines and various other media, I have been hearing about how China has gone from not only drinking and appreciating wine but making it themselves and good wine at that! I needed to see this for myself – along came the NWC!
I really did not know what to expect once I had been accepted to participate in the challenge apart from knowing I needed to make the most of this opportunity. I had never tasted any Ningxia wines but had read good reviews. Flying into Ningxia, already the landscape was fascinating – I couldn’t help but wonder where I would start seeing signs of vegetation. Slowly getting closer to Yinchuan it all started to make sense with the yellow river in sight.
My first few days were spent in Yinchuan where I met the other contestants and find out all about the challenge from the comfort of the Vintage Hill Hotel. Winery tours, tastings and a chance to try the wonderful foods typical to Ningxia. 
After being wined and dined and treated like kings, it was time to get serious and determine which winery each contestant would be hosted at along with which block of fruit we were going to be allocated by way of a lottery system.
Luck was on my side on this day and even though I didn’t know it at the time, I had just been allocated a wonderful block of fruit (No. 56) but even more importantly the best host winery I could have asked for – Chateau Luo Shan situated on the outskirts of Hongsibu. I made acquaintances with one of the owners Mrs. Wang, Chloe her niece and my translator (French and English), and Wang Shuchao a winemaker from Chateau Hansen who volunteered to kindly assist me in any possible way throughout my stay. Wang Shuchao’s help was invaluable as he speaks good English and also knows winemaking technical jargon.
Contestants weren’t billeted out to our wineries just yet as we still had to check out and get familiar with our blocks and take maturity samples. Mrs Wang was there to walk around the vineyard with me and it’s at this stage I realised that without a translator or a smart phone translator App, things would definitely be challenging. My initial sample came back at 21.5O Brix so it wasn’t time to pick just yet. However, the grapes were in good condition and showing nice flavours so I was very pleased.
The following day a chauffeur and Chloe came to pick me up from the Vintage Hill and off we went down to Hongsibu. Before leaving Yinchuan though we stopped to get me international supplies, a good pair of work shoes and a pH meter for the laboratory as they did not have one. This kind of generosity never stopped!
When we arrived at Hongsibu I was rather confused because they had taken me to what seemed to be an engineering/fabrication type warehouse where guys were making stainless steel tanks. Still not quite sure as to why we had come here, I finally realised that the tanks I was looking at were my tanks, made especially for my competition wine and they wanted to know if I had any modifications I would like to make. 
We finally got to the Chateau and I had a brief look around and I then got taken down the road and checked into my hotel. That night was the first of many nights spent eating and drinking copiously at a restaurant where I passed the ‘GAMBEI’ test and my new Chinese family were mighty impressed. Having met all of the Luo Shan staff that evening, the thing I noticed straight away was the family spirit around the tables and that outside of work these people were all friends - it was lovely!
An interesting conversation occurred at dinner that night, whereby I mentioned to Mrs Wang how much I am a fan of Chardonnay, and did she plan on making white wines in the near future. The reason I mention this is because the very next day I got taken to a white grape processing facility where they were de-juicing and making Chardonnay. We tried some of the tanks of juice from grapes picked a few days before that and then I was told that if I wanted to make some Chardonnay for Ch. Luo Shan that Mrs Wang was more than happy to buy 10,000L of juice for me to vinify. I chose my tank and it happened. I hadn’t even been there a full day yet and I was making wine – I was ecstatic. 
Seeing as my Cabernet wasn’t yet ready to be picked I spent my time taking in the scenery, visiting Luo Shan’s vineyards, tasting barrels and previous year’s wines, monitoring my Chardonnays, ordering dry goods, having lovely little lunches at the winery and getting to grips with how they operated the cellar so that I would have no surprises when my fruit came through the door. 
This little period of downtime was good as it allowed me to put things in perspective. I truly believe Ningxia is going to be something special in the World of Wine in years to come. There are great wines and not so great wines just like everywhere else in the world! 
I had got some more maturity samples and my sugar was now at 23O Brix, so I was ready to pick! I was very lucky that I didn’t need to book a day with the bureau’s harvesters as the whole of Luo Shan, from the chef to the accountant, came and got involved and we harvested my 15T on Saturday the 26th of September. Everything got back to the winery and we processed the next day.
My two tanks of Cabernet Sauvignon tasted, smelled and looked great right from word GO and I drained them off skins two days before flying out.
I was sad to have to leave and go back to reality and not see more of Ch. Luo Shan’s grapes come through the winery doors, but the good thing is I knew I’d be back.
In a nutshell, my first trip to Ningxia was a HUGE success. The winery that hosted me is one I will always hold close to my heart because of the lovely people working there and I truly feel like part of the Luo Shan Family. They were there for me every step of the way – something I am not used to people doing for me even back home.
The people are kind and helpful, the food is fantastic. The exciting thing is that this is merely the beginning. There are still vast improvements to be made viticulturally and in the winery, so to achieve what they are already now, to me is signs of greatness to come. In my eyes the region is clearly going to be a force to be reckoned with, within the World of Wine.
(文 马修•范•斯伯伊 图 宁夏回族自治区外国专家局)
 
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